Venice, 15 Years Later


So, someone explain to me why we haven’t been to Venice in 15 years?

After the  usual late takeoff from JFK, (where sitting on the runway for over an hour seems to be part of the travel experience) and  an early espresso in Dusseldorf, we finally landed at Marco Polo. Larry had slept for a while, I passed out for the last five minutes before landing in Germany, Go Me. Bus ride to P. Roma , an easy five minute walk to our apartment, meeting the charming owner, and flinging open the windows.

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Although not in the one of the older, most charming parts of Venice, the apartment is wonderfully comfortable (except for the dining room chairs, which seem to have been upholstered by someone who hates humanity). It’s an easy walk to the Vap, the tourists walk over the bridge down the rio instead of under our windows, and nothing in Venice is more than a half hour walk.

We walked to the Punto in Campo Santa Margherita and got some basics, and a SIM card from the Vodaphone store. . Threw together a simple pasta, drank some prosecco, and passed out at 8:30, when Italians are just starting to think about dinner.

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Thursday morning we slowly walked over to the Rialto markets. Eggplant, baby zucchini, apricots, salad greens, and score–zucchini blossoms. Cheeses from Casa de Parmigiano,a few goodies from Tonolo,  and wandered back home.

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Went back up to P. Roma to get our transport and museum passes, and got on the #2 vaperetto. Actually got a seat in the front! Loved the view, loved less getting thoroughly splashed with Canal water by a police boat speeding past.

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I had previously booked the “Skip the Line” tickets for the Basilica during a time when I knew the interior lights would be on, which worked out fantastically as we passed by the hundred or so poor souls broiling in the hot sun in line. I did have to reflect that the mosaics in San Marco were more impressive 15 years ago, before I had seen those in Ravenna and Rome. We stopped to watch a wedding party pose for photos and then depart in a fabulously overdone gondola.

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For lunch, we went to Esca. We shared a plate of fresh anchovies served with burrata and salsa verde; and a focaccia with roasted tomato, pesto and burrata. Three wonderful glasses of wine, a perfect light lunch.We liked one of the wines, a Soave, so much we got a bottle to bring home. Pleasant place, good vibe, and a three minute walk from the apartment.

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Went home, and I indulged in a nap.

After running a few more errands, we went on a walk. Ended up crossing through Dorsoduro, and landed at a lively canal  side bar near San Basilio.

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A home, I stuffed the zucchini flowers with fresh ricotta, basil and parmesan. Lovely dinner, with the last of the Prosecco and  sounds of boats below.


Another walk, ending with gelato from Il Doge at Campo S. Margherita. Coco for me, Bacio for Larry.


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